Few color educators are as versatile, thought provoking and amusing as David Stanko. The Redken color consultant, New York-based salon colorist and client consultation expert has been there and done that when it comes to every color situation, including formulating and troubleshooting reds and brunettes. “I think we’ll see a resurgence of coppers and reds in the next 12 months,” he predicts. “And a lot of dark-haired celebrities like Kim Kardashian are in the spotlight, which means more demand for these hues. Just remember, super dark brunettes are hard to wear and eventually girls will get bored with them. So try to create them with demi-permanents—it will be easier to ‘evolve’ out of them when the time comes.”
1. Reds are personal, and certain reds are more suitable to specific clients than others. People with porcelain and neutral skin tones and freckles wear reds best. However, it’s possible to adapt red hues to nearly anyone—it’s just a matter of placement and technique. For example, never place red highlights on mousy brown hair—it will look synthetic and unnatural. Opt instead for a single process red hue. And, avoid reds altogether on clients with lots of red undertones in their complexions—they’ll look like big tomatoes!
2. For subtle contrast on strawberry and copper tones, highlights are ideal. But keep them subtle—a few strategic, peek-a-boo accents in the fringe and part areas break up the boredom, but going overboard can lead to a yogurt parfait effect. Stick to single process color on stronger cranberry, crimson, pomegranate and mahogany hues. Adding additional contrast to these shades take them into the realm of “clowniness.”
