With the recent launch of Redken Shades EQ Cream and Cover Plus, top artists like Tracey Cunningham, and David Stanko headed to their dispensaries and played with new formula ideas and options. Here’s a quick-reference guide to their easiest, most-effective formulas so you can be armed with the tools to create amazing color for any client, any time of year.
1. COLOR MASTERYThe Artist: Tracey Cunningham | Byron and Tracey Salon, Beverly Hills, CA
Special Technique/Formula: For lowlights, use a richer shade in Zone 1 (the area 1-1½ inches from the scalp) and a slightly lighter shade in Zone 2 (mid-shaft towards ends). In Zone 1, apply 2 oz. 05WN Sandy Sable Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer. In Zone 2, apply 2 oz. 07WN Chai Tea Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
Color Hot Tip: Try “smudging” the base color after a highlight service. After you shampoo off your foils, apply Shades EQ Cover Plus Clear with 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer for 7-10 minutes. Because there is no deposit, your timing is based on your desired result.
2. COLOR MASTERY
The Artist: David Stanko | Angelo David Salon, New York, NY
Special Technique/Formula: To create a vibrant ginger-red with no hot roots, apply 1 oz. 07GC Burnished Copper Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer to Zone 1. To Zone 2, apply 1 oz. 09GC Golden Sienna Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
Color Hot Tip: For browned-out ends, try using 2 oz. Shades EQ Cover Plus Clear + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer. The subtle brightening effects of Shades EQ Cover Plus will help return brightness to browned-out ends.
3. BRILLIANT BRUNETTES
The Artist: Julie Hoffman | Salon Lofts, Hillard, OH
Special Technique/Formula: For a more dimensional brunette look, try sectioning the head into 4 quadrants for a global application. Start in the right nape and apply a base formula of 1 oz. 03BR Burgundy Wine Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 05WN Sandy Sable Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer to Zone 1. Immediately apply an accent formula of 1 oz. 06NA Cool Cocoa Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 03BR Burgundy Wine Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer to Zone 2. Drop down another ¼-inch section and apply the same Zone 1 formula, followed by Shades EQ Cream Clear in Zone 2. Keep alternating the accent formula for Zone 2 with Shades EQ Cream Clear.
4. ADVANCED GRAY BLENDING
The Artist: Leah Freeman | Fuse Salon, Columbus, OH
Special Technique/Formula: To achieve a matchstick color (a soft brown-red), try using ½ oz. 05BR Garnet Sand Shades EQ Cream + 1½ oz. Shades EQ Cream Clear + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
5. FASHION FORWARD COLOR
The Artist: Lori Zabel | Dop Dop Salon, New York, NY
Special Technique/Formula: To achieve highlights that appear like “shine lines” on patent leather, you can blend and fill in one step. Simply apply 2 oz. 09WB Golden Vanilla Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
Color Hot Tip: Fringes are all the rage! To enhance a fringe or make it look thicker and heavier, apply a shadow of color one to two levels darker than the base color with a slice on the underside of the fringe. Leave the scalp are color-free and blend the shadow color in Zones 2 and 3 (ends).
6. GLAZING AND TONING BLONDES
The Artist: Patrick Fitzwater | Salon Oasis, Boca Raton, FL
Special Technique/Formula: Most colorists have experienced the client who comes in off-the-charts blonde and still asks to be brighter. As stylists, we know that without dark there is no light, but our clients are afraid of the term “lowlights”—the solution is to try creative glazing. Randomly pick up circular sections about an inch wide and work four glaze formulas throughout the head:
Formula 1: 1 oz. 09NA Slate Blonde Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula 2: ½ oz. 09NA Slate Blonde Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula 3: 1 oz. 09WN Summer Wheat Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula 4: ½ oz. 09WN Summer Wheat Shades EQ Cream + ½ oz. Shades EQ Cream Clear + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
7. DIMENSIONAL COLOR
The Artist: Deboarh McCann | Salon Lofts, Hillard, OH
Special Technique/Formula: To create a modern, dimensional, double-process blonde with a rich cool base and icy platinum ends, pre-lighten the hair to the desired yellow/pale yellow. Treat the hair with Redken Chemistry Strength Shot and Shot Phix 3.5 pHix pHase sealer. Dry hair, then use a color brush to shadow Zone 1 up to 2-2½-inches with 1 oz. 09NA Slate Blonde Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 05WN Sandy Sable Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer. On Zone 2, apply 1 oz. Shades EQ Cream Clear + 1 oz. 09NA Slate Blonde Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
8. CORRECTIVE COLOR
The Artist: Lynn Hammond | Harbor Hair Design, Kingston, WA
Special Technique/Formula: To tone down brassiness, while maintaining the client’s original tone and adding shine, try the following formula: 1 oz. 09NA Slate Blonde Shades EQ Cream + ½ oz. 06NA Cool Cocoa Shades EQ Cream + ½ oz. Shades EQ Cream Clear + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
9. COOLING DOWN
The Artist: Alicia Marcano | Salon Bloom, Roswell, GA
Special Technique/Formula: Use a warm Shades EQ shade to fill lighter hair. Then use it as an overlay for a longer lasting, shiny coverage. For example, on previously lightened hair, you can fill with 2 oz. 07C Curry Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution, and then overlay with 1 oz. 05WB Golden Hazel Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 07GC Burnished Copper Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
10. SUN-KISSED BLONDES/ NATURALS
The Artist: Lauren Hagen | Salon Fredrick’s, Philadelphia, PA
Special Technique/Formula: In order to create a beautiful look on a client with 40 percent gray, apply 1 oz. 07NGi Cover Fusion + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer to Zone 1. On Zones 2 and 3, apply 2 oz. 7WN Chai Tea Shades EQ Cream + 2 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer.
source: http://behindthechair.com
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