Few color educators are as versatile, thought provoking and amusing as David Stanko. The Redken color consultant, New York-based salon colorist and client consultation expert has been there and done that when it comes to every color situation, including formulating and troubleshooting reds and brunettes. “I think we’ll see a resurgence of coppers and reds in the next 12 months,” he predicts. “And a lot of dark-haired celebrities like Kim Kardashian are in the spotlight, which means more demand for these hues. Just remember, super dark brunettes are hard to wear and eventually girls will get bored with them. So try to create them with demi-permanents—it will be easier to ‘evolve’ out of them when the time comes.”
1. Reds are personal, and certain reds are more suitable to specific clients than others. People with porcelain and neutral skin tones and freckles wear reds best. However, it’s possible to adapt red hues to nearly anyone—it’s just a matter of placement and technique. For example, never place red highlights on mousy brown hair—it will look synthetic and unnatural. Opt instead for a single process red hue. And, avoid reds altogether on clients with lots of red undertones in their complexions—they’ll look like big tomatoes!
2. For subtle contrast on strawberry and copper tones, highlights are ideal. But keep them subtle—a few strategic, peek-a-boo accents in the fringe and part areas break up the boredom, but going overboard can lead to a yogurt parfait effect. Stick to single process color on stronger cranberry, crimson, pomegranate and mahogany hues. Adding additional contrast to these shades take them into the realm of “clowniness.”
3. Watch a redhead in any film or television show and you’ll notice that her haircolor changes from shot to shot. (Think Bree on Desperate Housewives and Spidey’s gal Kirsten Dunst.) That’s because reds are notoriously tough to maintain, tough to keep consistent and tough to get rid of! To retain consistent reds, set clients up for regular glazing appointments between retouches.
4. Better than glazing is double glazing—after the initial service and between retouches—to control red fading. To double glaze, apply the first glaze formula (perhaps a red orange demi-permanent like Redken Shades EQ 06AA), process, rinse, shampoo and apply a second, similar tone that’s slightly lighter (like Shades EQ 09AA, a lighter blonde orange.)
5. Color treated shampoos are great for home maintenance—the gentle surfactants are respectful to color-treated hair. However, avoid color conditioners on red shades. These products adhere to porous areas, which can cause too much deposit, leading to browned-out, dull color build up.
6. There are three “flavors” of brunette—ash, neutral or warm. It’s important to determine which the client can tolerate. For example, if her hair was auburn as a kid, she’ll probably be able to handle some warmth. However, if her hair is quite dark and never fades, she’ll be uncomfortable if she sees too much red.
7. As a woman ages, lighten her dark hair. Remember that “like” attracts “like” which means that dark age spots, sun spots and under-eye circles will all be magnified by dark hair. Lift deep hues a minimum of one to two levels to flatter a mature client.
8. Brunette shades run the risk of appearing flat. Too prevent this, avoid shades that are too dark or too ashy, and add some subtle highlights to break up the monochromatic effect. One great technique is “Shake Lights.” Lift sections of hair, hold the ends, “shake” and gather the individual strands that fall out. Highlight these strands in foil with 20 volume developer for 20 minutes.
9. Many brunettes request caramel highlights, but the definition of caramel can be tricky—everyone has a different interpretation! Ideally, caramel highlights are a level 5.34—at the crossroads of blonde and brown, with a super soft, diminished gold character. There are two great ways to achieve caramel highlights. The first is to lift and then tone with a demi-permanent formula like Shades EQ 09NB (tan/mauve) + 06G (gold). Or, lift the hair with a dark blonde ash green + 12N, which allows you to control and refine the natural warmth.
10. When covering gray on brunette hair, add a bit of gold, gold beige or gold copper to your neutral formula. This will soften the ash tone and prevent the color from appearing too flat or too green.
source: http://behindthechair.com
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